Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 8: Kandooma

Kandooma tour

Kandooma has architected, in its landscape and buildings, vast inner spaces from a tropical canopy to a striking set of main buildings. Walking around the island, one feels a dramatic cathedral-like sense of interior space both in the built up and natural areas.

The island has no house reef and only a few small swimming lagoons. The downside is that there is hardly any snorkelling from the beach (but snorkelling excursions are offered for free everyday at 3:00 pm). One upside is good wave breaks for those interested in surfing. But this type of reef gives the island a different atmosphere to the classic, quiet little plot of sand in a lagoon. Instead of calm water gently lapping the shores, the ocean in many places (not all) around Kandooma rolls in with modest waves that fill the air with the ambient sound of gently crashing surf.

The surf is just the beginning of its more vibrant feel. Kandooma is popular with young families, so one hears peals of laughter, splashing of water and scampering around by giddy youngsters. The resort also offers different entertainment every night from local bands to karaoke.

Kandooma’s island does not sit alone in the ocean like W Retreat, nor is it tightly clustered with other islands like Anantara, nor amidst big built up islands like Vadoo, but there is a collection of islands in the immediate vicinity. Like a little Indian Ocean neighbourhood of islands.

Kandooma itself has the feel of a little ocean town, especially around the reception, which overlooks a main mini-harbour surrounded by the restaurant and the towering upside-down ‘coconut husk’ buildings. Kandooma is not small at all, but doesn’t feel big either. You can easily circumnavigate it in the time it takes to drink a pina colada. It has a very open feel, especially in the interior where there are lots of trees and greenery, but not lots of shrubbery or ground cover. A pervasive tropical canopy of greenery shrouds an endless expanse of white sand.

Like its syllable shuffled counterpart Komandoo, Kandooma is really a 4+ star. It ticks all the boxes for a 4 star rating but adds quite a number of 5 star touches like rain showers and free in-room Wifi. The rooms are smart and stylish with antiqued white wash decor. It has stylish design with its use of burr-wood, the ‘coconut husk’ inspired architecture, and dramatic white canvas awnings of the main areas.

An ebullient bubble of paradise.

Kandooma tour 2

Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 7: W Retreat

W Retreat breakfast

Now that’s what I’m talking about.

Distinction. I knew all about the W chain’s exacting attention to detail, their preoccupation with style, and their boundary-pushing service ethic. These qualities are the very spirit of the ‘Best Of’ distinctions I ferret out across the Maldives. In fact, even before my visit, I had already featured the W Retreat many times.

W displayed endless little magical touches…

  • Laser cut ‘W’s in the stationery
  • Sculpted orange wedges in welcome drink
  • Welcome mat that says ‘Good Morning’ and changes for ‘Afternoon’ and ‘Evening’
  • All tables with adjustable leg bottoms so they never wobble
  • Lychee fruit on the half-shell
  • ‘W’ embossed on toilet paper triangles
  • Michelin star quality Crab Corn Chowder (as born-and-bred New Englander who knows his chowders like me can attest)

Those above are probably too small for even my Best Of section, but the W won’t miss these Best Of pieces, because my short visit uncovered enough distinctions to draft over 20 other pieces. Combined with the 4 I’ve already done on the W Retreat powers them past Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru’s 22 pieces (published or in the works).

Style. There’s ‘Hip Hotels’ and then there is the Hip Hotel Chain…the W. I’ve stayed in W hotels a number of times so I knew what to expect. This tour, I’ve gone from the jazz of Komandoo, to the pop of Kuredu, to the ‘chill out’ of W Retreat. If Kuredu’s guests were eye candy, the W Retreat resort itself is the eye candy. Sometimes pictures exaggerate how nice something looks, but I think pictures don’t capture the actual refinement and polish of the W.

Service. The W abounds with ‘W’ alliterations, one of which should be “Where everyone knows your name.” Quite literally. Be warned it can be a bit creepy for the unsuspecting to have everyone calling you by name, but it really does make you feel like a bit of a celebrity.

Service is not an add-on for the W, but an ingrained part of its DNA. At first, I was curious that there was no butler service which has become de rigueur for the super-premium properties in the Maldives. Then, I realised that every member of staff was trained and positioned to be a ‘butler’. Actually, all staff are referred to as ‘Service Talents’. I was going to say the service is ‘baked in’, but it rather seems like it is ‘engineered in’. The way that German automakers ‘engineer in’ quality, and Italian designers ‘engineer in’ flair. You get the sense that there is some W R&D laboratory somewhere with a bunch of style and service boffins in white (linen) coats sitting around experimenting with new innovative touches.

Service is not just about cheery faces and intense willing. It is about excellent processes that both handle issues when they arise and avoid issues altogether. It is also about deep training of the staff so that they can execute smoothly on the demands placed. All top resorts say ‘this is what we offer, but we can do anything you like’; the W says ‘what we offer is anything you like.’ The service sort of feels like how your spouse treats you on your birthday (”Anything you like honey, it’s your birthday”).

Some people critique that the W is too officious in its service, but I think that they do need to be a little forward in spelling out what a guest can ask for and get. Simply because most guests simply wouldn’t think of asking for some of the things that the W will do.

Chic, current, charismatic.

Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 6: Kuredu

Kuredu Darren Hancock and Alison Sampson tennis

Welcome to Eden. Eden resort of the film ‘Couples Retreat’ that is. I wrote yesterday about the uncanny parallels between sister resorts Komandoo and Kuredu as depicted in the rom-com ‘Couples Retreat’. One of the plot lines of the film is that the guys on the ‘Couples Retreat’ island plot to find a way to get over to the ‘Eden resort’ where all the fun and excitement seems to be. Well, Lori and I finally made it over to ‘Eden Resort’ today. You sense it as soon as you arrive as the reception music changes from Komandoo’s gentle jazz (an inspired playlist actually) to Kuredu’s ‘house’ and ‘top 40 pop’.

And like the portrayal of the film, I would say Kuredu would be a top nominee for the ‘Best Looking Guests’. Lots of young and sporty folks like Darren Hancock and Alison Sampson playing tennis during my resort tour (see picture above). If the arty emos are off to Komandoo, then the ‘cool kids’ have congregated here. It’s not quite party central like Ibiza, but it is as lively and as busy a place as you’ll find in the Maldives.

Much of its energy comes from its unmatched array of sports. They exploit their size to offer the fullest range of activities including some of the top diving in the Maldives, a fine water sports centre, a brand new all-weather football pitch and the ringer…a golf club. All the facilities were in steady use during our stay in addition to a range of folk playing games on the beach and in the water.

And when you have worked out enough, the Duniyespa spas are truly first rate. My wife particularly raved about Tini (see below) who was able to relieve neck pain she has been suffering from despite various treatments. One of the best treatments my wife has ever had and she has had a fair few.

Kuredu is big enough that they have divided it into 3 areas each with its own reception, restaurants and atmosphere. The east side is the quiet side with no kids under 12, no water sports, no sea plane, etc.  While Komandoo felt smaller than its real size, Kuredu feels bigger. Kuredu is half the size of Kuramathi, but it feels bigger than Kuramathi. It has the closest thing to ‘roads’ this side of Gan. In fact, walkways are set aside as coconut-husk lined ‘sidewalks’.

Kuredu is a big resort. Big in size, big in offerings, big in energy, and big in personality.

Tini Duniyespa Kuredu

Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 5: Komandoo

Komandoo welcome

Intimate. Intimate is the one word that describes Komandoo. Intimate island. Intimate cottages. Restaurants with just a few tables and a simple buffet (not mounds of food like some resort smorgasbords). Filled with honeymooners and second honeymooners. It isn’t even in the top 20 of smallest Maldive islands, but it still fosters this feeling more so than some smaller islands.

When I started the ‘Best Of’ feature in Maldives Complete, one of my motivations was to dispel the myth that ‘there is nothing to do in the Maldives’. But with Komandoo, I have to concede. There is nothing to do. There really is nothing to do except snorkel/dive, sail/canoe, badminton, chess, volleyball and do spa treatments. And I guess stare into each other’s eyes.

That is not a shortcoming, but a design point. It is like the movie ‘Couples Retreat’ but for ‘Stress Retreat’. Instead of broken relationships, it fixes broken blood pressures (and I’m sure it doesn’t do relationships any harm either). For folks who suffer from withdrawals of activities, Komandoo is right down the atoll from its sister resort Kuredu which conversely has one of the largest arrays of activities of any resort (kind of like the Eden resort on ‘Couples Retreat’).

It is this deliberate shun of trappings that misleadingly penalises Komandoo on the official ‘star rating’ front. It is billed as a 4 star property, but they say that they aspire to 5 star service. I actually think that Komandoo is a 4.5 star or a 4+ star if there ever was one. Mostly, they are a case study for how broken the conventional hotel rating system is, especially when applied in the Maldives. You have an incomparable property that gets official dings because it doesn’t have a bidet that no one would use any way. It gets dinged for no swimming pool, and yet for its positioning of being kid-free, there is really no strong reason for a pool. Evidence of this disjointed system is the fact that Komandoo have won several prominent awards, including Trip Advisor Traveller’s Choice Award 2009 and #1 Romance Holiday Destination in Asia. You don’t win awards like those if you are ‘just a 4 star’.

Natural wood styling pervades, which imparts a sauna-like aroma. The wood has a washed finish which is lighter and brighter than many of the wood-finish rooms on other resorts. The villas are raised up slightly higher than most beach villas and so the deck has a bit of an overlook providing more perspective on the tapestry of aquamarine colours just a few metres away.

The pina coladas were the best I’ve had in a long time (so much so that I broke my own self-imposed limit of 2 and got a 3rd). And the buffet was the first where I had to sample every dish on offer – they all looked and smelled (and tasted) so good.

One of the special treats is the ocean. Komandoo is reputed to have one of the top ten house reefs in the Maldives. And if that’s not enough you, Prodivers runs a sharp dive centre. I took a dive trip with Silvia Ruder and Steve Molyneux to the famous Kuredu Caves. The Caves also has to be one of the top ten dive sites in the Maldives. As I have already accounted, they are famous for their impressive turtle community residing in a distinctive array of deep overhangs on a steep reef. There are no guarantees of seeing stuff in diving, but Kuredu Caves is about as close as you get to one. The minute I descended I saw my first turtle and I was still watching one as I did my safety stop. Not just any turtles. Green turtles which are less common than the Hawksbill in the Maldives (though you see Hawksbills as well). And monster turtles. Giant behemoths doing Battlestar Gallactica impersonations. Steve was checking out a leaf fish on one ledge when one granddaddy, every bit as long as the divemaster himself and probably twice as heavy in sumo class, came along and simply pushed Steve out of his way (that turtle wanted his nap and he wanted it now!).

Refined intimate indolence.

 

Kuredu Caves turtle

Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 4: Palm Beach

Palm Beach arrival

If Kanuhura is Bollinger, then Palm Beach is a fine Prosecco. A fine Prosecco. That’s not a slight, but a reference to Palm Beach’s strong Italian heritage and links. Like Prosecco, Palm Beach is fine, bubbly refreshment for great value.

A couple of years ago, our family rented a villa on the west coast of Italy on a prominence called Monte Argentario. We went on a diving trip by a local dive operator. The diving was fun and pleasant (didn’t real hold a candle to the Maldives though). But the highlight of the day was the lunch the Italian crew crafted on board at the end of the diving. On a little butane fire, they boiled fresh pasta, mixed some chopped tomatoes and local fresh prawns and tossed it altogether. It was one of the most delicious dishes I had ever eaten with its rustic simplicity and freshness. Palm Beach reminds me of that lunch. Nothing fancy at all. Few bells and whistles, but authentic Maldivian splendour and fun. The decor is all natural wood (though a little dark for my tastes) that is simple without coming across as cheap.

Despite its Italian popularity, you can now get Palm Beach packages through Kuoni, but some of the best deals are available directly through the Sportingholidays website. Probably best to avoid August which is the Italians’ peak season and there is quite a demand for the rooms then. In fact, a bunch of the room numbers out of sequence due to large numbers of repeaters who don’t just want to come back to this same resort, but want their very same room. That means that means that when Palm Beach adds a new villa, they just add a number no matter where it sits in the sequence so as not to disrupt the established numbers.

Ciao from Maldives!

Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 3: Kanuhura

Kanuhura reception

Kanuhura is the Bollinger of the Maldives.

My wife and I have enjoyed many a good bottle of champers in our time as we have savoured many varieties of Maldives resorts in our 9 visits. We have had budget Cava, vintage Crystal, even a surprisingly delectable Indian sparkling wine (Omar Khyaam). But the one we always come back to is Bollinger NV. It is subtly distinctive, tasty, and well crafted. If our current Maldives tour is like a champagne tasting trip through Reims, then Kanuhura is the much anticipated house of Bollinger.

The One & Only group really pioneered the notion of a super premium luxury marque in hotels. And it definitely kicked off the super-premium class in the Maldives with now veteran resorts Reethi Rah and Kanuhura. But in recent years, the Maldives has been a magnet for the latest bling showpieces in hospitality. Underwater restaurants, underwater spas, luxury sea planes, marine discovery centres. One big arms race to out do one another in jaw-dropping attractions. Kanuhura has not yet come out with such buzz-stirring features, but a conversation with General Manager Vladmir Scanu made it clear that they have some very imaginative thinking about how to further enhance the already first class Kanuhura experience.

A lot of the Kanuhura quality is understated. Subtle touches pervade like flowers under spa treatment beds where your face is poking through (why doesn’t every spa in the world do this?). I get served lots of herbal infusions on my various spa visits around the world, but Kanuhura’s lemon grass ginger tea was the first time I had to ask for the recipe. One of my favourite touches is the ‘poolside sunglasses polishing service.’

In this soft spoken demeanor, Nature is a big focus and theme of the resort is clear (and I will be writing more detailed pieces in the coming weeks). Not just the aquatic type that is sort of a given for any Maldivian resort, but the terrestrial type. The nature of the island and what grows on it. They do Nature walks every Sunday and have such sophisticated orchid cultivation that they have their own variety of orchid registered ‘Dendrobium Kanuhura’.

Kanuhura is a fresh, natural classic. And truly classic style never goes out of date.

Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 2: Anantara Dhigu, Anantara Veli, Naladhu

Maldives Tour 2011 Anantara

The Maldive Trio.

We live on a farm in a converted barn quite close to our other neighbours who also live in charming conversions. We are quite remote, being out on a farm, but we don’t feel isolated because we have our neighbours with whom we regularly have spontaneous gatherings for BBQs, tea or drinks. It has a delightful ‘little community’ feel to it. Anantara Dhigu/Veli/Naladhu has that same feel.

A little cluster of three resort islands plus a staff island and a little bonus island makes it like a little exotic community of paradise. It has a different feel to that of the big resort islands, because each individual island is relatively small. Sales Executive Shanoon Khalid, who took me around, is a Maldivian native and he said that the ‘community of little islands’ feel is very authentically ‘Maldivian’ and has the closest feel of any resort to the ambiance and atmosphere of where he grew up.

The portfolio approach to resort layout also enables a ‘have your cake and eat it, too’ solution: the privacy of a small select property with access to a broad range of services and infrastructure – small island feel with large island amenities. Peace and quiet on the beach with water sports available (but secluded away on another island so little sound activity disturbs the beach-goers.

All three resorts are peppered with delightful touches you would expect from a proper 5 star property. For example, Dhigu’s water villas have ceilings styled as if a Maldivian dhoni (traditional) boat had been overturned on the villa. Their design also provides great views while maintaining privacy from the adjacent villas.

The biggest shortcoming to these Anantara resorts is the snorkelling. You can, of course, go on plenty of snorkel excursions for some stunning snorkelling at nearby reefs. If popping out of your villa and plunging straight into snorkelling is high on your list, then I recommend the Veli island where they have some really fine crops of new growth branch coral in the water villa lagoon. Marine Biologist Sarah Kompatscher also says that there are a range of small reefs around the resorts that they can take you and direct you too (she says that octopus is actually quite commonly sighted and Shanoon noted that schools of squid are quite common) according to your swimming abilities.

Five-star done just right. Not too fussy, but nothing missing.

Maldives tour 2011 Anantara 2

Ocean kayaking to the neighbouring ‘picnic island’

Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 1: BA Flight2043

Arrival Male Maldives

What goes on tour doesn’t stay on tour this time. I’m off for my longest tour of the Maldives ever – 15 resorts in as many days – and I will be posting daily on them. Like last November, I will then follow up the tour with a series of daily ‘Best Ofs’ with a sample of distinctives and uniques that I uncover.

I’ve opted for the BA non-stop primarily for the ease of finding the best price. I have a number of trips coming up over the next few months and I really appreciate BA’s web site approach which clearly indicates the price of your flight segment and what it would be if you shifted it slightly. EasyJet pioneered this online booking approach in the UK and I am surprised more airlines don’t use it.

The whole BA experience is a reliably positive one. They seem to be on an up cycle for cheerfulness. They were renowned in the earliest years for their service, but then they went through a patch in the nineties where they were surly and off-putting. They seemed to have turned that around as the service staff were about the most friendly and upbeat of any of my recent travels. They had some troubles with the entertainment system at the outset of the trip, but the attendant sorting it out was ever so charming as she explained over the tanoy what was going on and how she was addressing it.

I will also say that the food is quite edible. Again, I have been travelling a fair amount lately and I am stunned at how wrong airlines get plane food. I realise that it is a monster challenge serving a dinner party for 300 and steering clear of everyone’s food preferences to get something everyone will like. What astonishes me the most is how bad the desserts are. I think they are trying to do is create the appearance of fancy dish on a relatively modest budget. Just give us a piece of chocolate cake. Who doesn’t like chocolate cake? I will hand it to BA for having a dessert that I could enjoy – profiteroles with chocolate mousse. Though I did wonder why no simply give everyone a pot of mousse. Who really doesn’t love chocolate mousse??

Another bonus to the #2043 is the early arrival. Most trips to the Maldives you don’t get to the resort to late in the afternoon and Day 1 is about gone. We arrive at Male at 9:05 am with the whole day before us.

More on that tomorrow…

Best of the Maldives: Spa Arrival – Four Seasons Kuda Huraa

Four Seasons Kuda Huraa spa dhoni

My recent visit to several prime resorts in the Maldives uncovered a wealth (65) of distinctive features that I will be exploring in depth over the coming months. I thought I would start off with a taster selection over the coming week for each resort.

The first resort on the itinerary was Four Seasons Kuda Huraa. Every spa treatment is a treat. And the best Maldive ones build up the anticipation with lovely receptions infused with incense and ambient tones that start the process of transporting you away mind and body to another place. Four Seasons Kuda Huraa takes this ‘transporting’ quite literally to a whole new level with its shuttle service to its spa. The Kuda Huraa spa sits by itself on a small little island just off shore from the main island. You could take a short swim over I guess, but the quaint ‘Kuda Dhoni’ (‘Little Boat’) ride over is just the thing to shift gears from the resort to your own little special sanctuary.

And the destination is worthy of mention. It is certainly one of the top massages we have had (the therapist was very attentive to a neck pain and spent extra time on that area that was very effective).

Maldives Tour 2010 – Day 9: Recap

Bruce Tour commuting

I never thought that I would use the words ‘frenetic’ and ‘Maldives’ in the same sentence, but that was my past week seeing 9 resorts in 7 days including 5 stops at Male airport for transfers. The objective of ferreting out a number of unsung quirks and curiosities exceeded every expectation.

I also came to some broader upbeat realisations about visiting this paradise…

  • Elephants can dance – I have always gravitated towards the smaller islands in the Maldives. The one step up from the plot of sand with a palm tree on it. To me the small islands exemplified the Robinson Crusoe fantasy. But serendipity brought me to a number of larger properties and I found them universally packed with their own charms and assets.
  • Weather – Don’t sweat the weather forecast. I checked the weather forecasts before our departure and it was calling for ‘Scattered Thundershowers’ every single day. And yet, over the week, not one drop of rain fell on me. We had a shower overnight one day and on another day a brief shower hit while we were in the restaurant. We woke up to an overcast sky one morning, but were slathering on sun block hours later. Everything else was gorgeous sunshine with enough scattered clouds to make for great sunsets.
  • The Deal’s the Thing – When looking for the right holiday for you, filter on what you want and look for the best deal. Most quality is proportionate the standard rates in most cases and the stars rating is not helpful as just about everyone is a 4-plus or 5.
  • Coral Can Come Back – Faster than imagined. Yes, it will take generations to rebuild reefs, but in a few short years you can really see dramatic growth. Active Reef Regeneration like Kuda Huraa’s and Landaa’s really inspired me, but also just places like the Vadoo reef showed vibrancy I have not seen for a while.
  • Food patience – It’s hard to get food right. Not one resort consistently blew me awayon the cuisine front though there were many memorable highlights. The best food works with the relatively local ingredients (tropical fruits, fresh seafood), but I appreciate the challenge of parochial visitors who either (a) want their familiar meat-and-potatoes or fried-rice, or (b) want more variety.
  • Rise of China – Anyone who thinks that China’s prosperity is about a bunch of factory workers getting more rice might want to look at the Maldives’ visitor statistics. In 2010, China rose to the top of the table as the country sending the most visitors to the country’s resorts (maybe I need to do a Mandarin version of Maldives Complete insightful remarked my friend Alex Weindling).  It wasn’t just an empty or dry statistic, but you could see the Chinese every where I went.  One dive master commented that a real challenge (among many) to this shift is that the Chinese are generally pretty weak swimmers and many of them are getting into troubles in the ocean quite often.

I also had some downbeat reflections about the pet peeves that really niggle me…

  • No good tshirts on sale.
  • Eating set far from water or view.
  • Weak bar snacks (olives, crisps, peanuts).
  • Inappropriate ‘pop’ music (especially when played too loudly – more resort managers need to watch this short video clip).

In all, I uncovered 65 ‘Best Of’ candidates on the tour. Next couple of weeks I will be featuring one of my favourites from each of the resorts.

 

Kuda Huraa villa windows inside