Best of the Maldives – Pre-Schoolers: Kandooma

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Kandooma pool

As I have written before, I was originally going to call Maldives Complete by the name of ‘Maldives For Families’. There were so many websites heralding it as a destination for romance/honeymoon or diving, but I always thought of it as an outstanding place for children (eg. calm water, bounded area, no motor vehicles, caring culture). Fortunately, more and more resorts are specifically catering to children with excellent kids clubs and a range of other creative offerings like Rangali’s ‘Ice Cream Spa’ and Naladhu’s Storytelling.

One of the most prominent aspects that struck me about Kandooma was its excellent suitability for children of pre-school age, namely 2-6. Less than 2 years old and Bandos has a special service catering for them. Over 6 years old, kids start to snorkel and Kandooma has limited snorkelling. But in between, Kandooma is their paradise.

The resort is geared up in a very friendly way to start with. They have a big kids club. They have lots of family villas. Both villas that interconnect and villas designed to accommodate 4 or more. There are 6 units that accommodate 6 people. Two separate bedrooms and comfortable lounges that convert to beds in the living area. Could do 7 in a pinch. Also, could do 2 couples with the kids in the living room.  They are not the only family villas in the Maldives, but probably the best value.

Another big bonus is that kids under 12 eat free under in any restaurant. Their main restaurant is charming with tasty (not gourmet) food. They do have a seaside restaurant that specialises in lobster if Mom and Dad want a treat). In fact, Kandooma has just enough 5* touches to make Mom and Dad feel like they are having a treat, but not so fancy that Mom and Dad have to feel self-conscious about their young ones scampering about.

And that atmosphere is another big tick. Lots of resorts welcome children, but fewer actually have an ambiance that bubbles over with juvenile frolicking. Kandooma has that buoyant energy especially around its mammoth pool (see above). I’m still researching, but I think it covers more surface area than any in the Maldives. I emphasize surface area, because in volume it is quite modest with its pervasively shallow depth (about a metre). Just perfect young ones. It’s right next to the main restaurant so kids can get more splash time in while Mom and Dad linger over a meal.

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Best of the Maldives – Sports: Kuredu

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Kuredu football pitch

 

Usually, Best of the Maldives has to focus in on quite particular if not peculiar features in order to justify calling them the ‘Best Of’ among such high quality offerings in the country. So calling Kuredu something as broad and bold as the ‘Best for Sports’ takes a bit of justification.

Yes, Kuredu, especially with it’s larger size, ticks all of the boxes for sports activities on offer with lots of courts, pitches and a fully stocked watersports centre. The pitches include a brand new, all weather pitch (see above) that would rival the best Mirihi has to offer.

And if there is one sport for which the Maldives is famous, it is diving. And Kuredu is one of the tops for that. Already distinguished for its best wreck dive and best turtle dive in all the Maldives.

And then there the one sport for which the Maldives is least famous. Or at least famous for its absence. Golf. The biggest thing that keeps prospective guests away from the Maldives is the lack of golf. And Kuredu has the dominance here with quite an extensive golf club. It’s not Augusta or St. Andrews, but it is enough to keep a golf addict from suffering withdrawals. Actually, several resorts have some form of golfing now, but Kuredu’s is the largest and most extensive.

Finally, there is a sporty atmosphere. It struck me and I commented on it in my initial tour post (viz. Darren and Allison). A lot of resorts have sports facilities, but frankly, many times they are there more for show and to tick a box give how little they are used. And who can blame the guests? Even the most driven, triathlon mega-athlete would be seduced into a soporific indolence by the intoxicating calm and tranquillity of the Maldives. But many Kuredu guest seem a bit immune to that environmental opiate (though those who choose can and do certainly recline comatose on the beautiful beaches if they opt). Every single pitch and court was in active use when I visited the island.

As a final word, our hearts go to all the staff and guests who suffered the tragedy of this week’s fatal accident on the island. Any such loss is terrible, but is made particularly jarring in contrast to such a lovely place and a lovely celebration the couple were enjoying.

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Best of the Maldives – A Capella Greeting: Komandoo

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Komandoo welcome song

 

All of the Maldives resorts welcome their guests with various treats from tropical drinks, scented cold towels and even music, but Komandoo is the first I have seen to have their own welcome song. Delivered with heart and enthusiasm accompanies by bodu-beru drumming, it is really warm fun. The full sensory experience welcome (scented towels, refreshing drink, dulcet tones, and pleasing smiles).

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Best of the Maldives – Italians: Palm Beach

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Palm Beach MondoMaldives

Italy has one of the strongest heritages in the Maldives along with the British and the Germans. At least half a dozen resorts are primarily Italian in clientele and background. But the ‘nonno’ of them all has to be Palm Beach.

Over 85% of Palm Beach’s guests are Italian and nearly 100% during the peak holiday season of this month. They attract the glitterati of Italian society from Italian movies stars and footballers to prominent politicians and business leaders. This dominance is evident in the prevalent Italian fare on offer down to the San Pelligrino water as well as a very Mediterranean family vibe throughout.

So how would one determine the ‘Best’ for Italians? Well, for starters, it might be the place where the Italian experts on the Maldives so on their vacation. And by total coincidence, the single day that we stopped at Palm Beach was the final day for Roberta Migliarini and Paolo Bellici, founders and operators of not just one of the top Italian sites on the Maldives, but one of the top sites worldwide – MondoMaldive.

As if their own presence wasn’t testimony enough, I did ask them what they thought the best islands for Italians would be in the Maldives. They wouldn’t be drawn into declaring Palm Beach the best, but it was very clear that they thought extremely highly of the place. They tried to make a case for some of the others, but just didn’t convince me that the others were superior (unless you wanted something different in atmosphere or offerings.., my saying ’there is no best island, only the best for you island’).

We spent the evening chatting about all thing Maldives. By further coincidence, I had just bought their guide book MondoMaldives at the airport gift store on arrival. Like their site, surely the most comprehensive resource on the details of the various resorts. They inscribed my copy “Per le vostre stresse nostre passione per le Maldive.” And to top it off, they presented me with an official MondoMaldive t-shirt (see below). Note to resorts and entrepreneurs – the MondoMaldive t-shirt features the words ‘I love the Maldives’ in the native language of Dhiveli which attracted constant remark and attention from all the Maldivian staff who saw it throughout my stay. Someone should ask MondoMaldives about selling their t-shirt as well as their book. They are a great couple as friendly and warm as their website is comprehensive and useful. I can see why their Forum is such a hit (unfortunately, it is only in Italian).

Because the resort is so popular with Italians, it is a bit unsung in other countries, but Palm Beach welcomes all nationalities enthusiastically and noted that a steadily growing number of British have discovered its charms.

Ciao bellissima Palm Beach!

Palm Beach MondoMaldives 2

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Best of the Maldives – Bubble Loungers: One & Only Kanuhura

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Kanuhura pool jacuzzi

Perhaps the most relaxing times in our decade and a half of visiting the Maldives were lounging by the pool. Kanuhura has turned that relaxation into an art.

First of all they boast one of the largest pools in the Maldives. A contortionate, curvaceous beast like some sort of voluptuous gymnast. As pleasant on the eye as the soothing to the skin.

Then they add a unique in its own right…a bank of Jacuzzi loungers (see photo above). Not a separate jacuzzi, but a air jets right in the pool. And not some little space where you sit on some bench-like contraption trying not to inadvertently play footsie with some other guest who happened drop in. Your own, full-length, individual, head-propping, leg-stretching lounger. In the pool.

To top it all off, they have simply the most elaborate pool-side service I have come across anywhere. More on that in a future piece, but just hint of it…’sun glass polishing service’.

Ahhhhh.

resort

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Best of the Maldives – Tub-Pool Combo: Naladhu

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Naladhu pool tub combo

Forget your underwater spas, restaurants, bedrooms and night clubs. I’m on my honeymoon and I don’t want to be looking at a bunch of Brown Spotted Groupers. I want to look at my gorgeous bride. And that includes my underwater viewing fun. Here in one of Naladhu’s private villas, they have combined the outdoor pool with the outdoor bathtub. Relaxing in a soothing tub while watching my gorgeous bride taking a dip in her ‘skimpiest’ of suits. Now that’s a treat.

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Best of the Maldives – Lagoon Lounging: Anantara Dhigu

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Anantara Dhigu hammock

For people who really want to get away from it all. For people for whom going to some exotic island in the middle of the Indian Ocean is not remote enough. For people who want to go their own little haven of solitude in the middle of the ocean off the exotic island in the middle of the ocean.

A hammock in the middle of the ocean.

Genius.

This view in the photo above is not from some island, but from the middle of the ocean (in a kayak) looking back at Anantara Dhigu. It is over 100 yards off shore (though the depth here at a lazy-butt-cooling high tide is about 4 feet).

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Best of the Maldives – Fusion: Anantara Veli

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Anantara Veli Gekko

My fortnight tour of the Maldives identified 89 potential new ‘Best of Maldives’ features (to add to the 169 I have already posted and the further 94 that I have drafted in the wings). Over the upcoming fortnight, I will be featuring the first ‘Best Of’ pieces stemming from the trip. They might not be the biggest or most dramatic, just a sample of some my favourites.

Speaking of favourites, our favourite food of the trip was hands down the Italian-Fusion restaurant on Anantara Veli, Geckos. When I first was told about it, I was a bit sceptical. ‘So what is it? Pizza and sushi? What’s the fusion?’ And it is indeed the ‘fusion’ that makes it special. Executive Sous-Chef Ken explained that they use indigenous ingredients from both Japanese and Italian cuisine and do indeed ‘fuse’ them into novel renditions of familiar dishes and styles.

Yes, they have Sushi Pizza (the sushi is put on after it’s cooked and the pizza base is a thinner style). They have Italian pasta made with Japanese togorashi and nouri. Even the Italian garlic bread is accented with Japanese spices. I had the Teppanyaki pork on lemon grass and crab meat sauce which was stunning. The chef’s specialty is ‘Ebi Pizza’ made with prawns, crab, dry roasted seaweed, Japanese spices, Mishima yaksri

Ken even offers the guest recipes of any of the dishes you crave (my wife wants the recipes for the ‘Roasted sesame seed ice cream’ and ‘spiced salmon on Tagliatelle with wafu sauce’).

buon appetito in Japanese

‘buon appetito’ in Japanese

Anantara Veli Gekko 2

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Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 14: Wrap up

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Komandoo writing

Best Of the Best – A lot of people ask ‘what is the best island’, but the real question to ask is ‘what is the best island FOR YOU.’ As Mohamed Thoufeeq, Reservations Manager at Kuredu says “Resorts create their own atmosphere and that is actually the tradition with local islands.” I kept being surprised by the many funky and quirky bits I would uncover. I would often arrive at an island with the first impression that everything looked so conventional that nothing would stand out. But after a few minutes of walking around, all of these hidden treasures would reveal themselves.

Two weeks versus one week. This was our first two week trip. We used to think that a single week was just fine. That after seven days you get a bit tired of the resort food, miss home, run out of clean clothes. Aside from just ‘more Maldives’ and ‘more time down time,’ there was one dramatic impact that the fortnight stay had over the single week. It meant that when you woke up and the day wasn’t quite so sunny to start with or if a day didn’t quite go the way you wanted, you didn’t worry that one of your precious days was lessened. You figured that you had plenty more and so each inevitable, minor shortcoming was easier to shrug off than the 7 day stay. It was the difference between savouring a fine meal and wolfing it down. I do think that the ideal is probably 10 days – ie. a week straddling two weekends. Then you get most of the 14 days while only burning one week of holiday time. With the increasing availability of commercial flights and direct booking, such a tailored timing is much more feasible than ever (versus the tour operators who want to slot you into nicely synchronised 7 day segments).

Rainy Season. One of the top frets of prospective visitors is rain spoiling any part of their stay. The weather is the weather and anything can happen anywhere. Mother Nature offers no guarantees on planet Earth. That disclaimer said, in my experience, the Maldives worst rainy season is on a whole better the UK’s best sunny season. Official meteorological data is the most objective and scientific, but nonetheless I offer this anecdotal perspective because the ‘quality’ of the weather can get lost in the statistics. Travelling in late July, normally we would be past the depths of the rainy season in May and June. But July is the third wettest month and due to a relatively dry and sunny June people were saying that the rainy season was stretching into July. In fact, when we looked at the forecasts on the night before our departure there was an unending string of thunderstorm icons. So what really happened? Out of 15 days, we got a couple of showers at night while we were tucked in our beds, and a couple of days where you felt some drips and asked ‘is it raining?’ I would say that most days there were clouds in the sky instead of the iconic boundless blueness mirroring the aquamarine sea below.

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Maldives Tour 2011 – Day 13: Kurumba Farewell

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Kurumba is perhaps the most unsung house reef there is. You don’t often hear about it being mentioned as one of the tops, but I must say that Kurumba is simply the best house reef we have ever snorkelled. And we have snorkelled dozens. Especially for reef sharks, Kurumba is Shark Central (though a local tells me that Bandos is also extremely good for reef sharks). Our first snorkel at Kurumba we lost track of how many sharks we saw at about 20. Some well over a metre long. When they swim, sharks shake their butt more than a double-jointed salsa dancer. We thought maybe it was a fluke. Sometimes you see things snorkelling and other times you don’t is typically how it goes. But every single day we snorkelled at Kurumba, we saw tons of fish and lots of reef sharks of all sized.

But that wasn’t all. Lots of sting rays (mostly by the water sports centre), every type of lion fish, a turtle we swam with. A friend we met found an octopus in the lagoon and took lots of pictures. My wife’s favourite was finding a Zebra Moray (see picture below). They are very shy so she waited by his hovel for a long time hoping for him to pop out a bit more for a better photo op.

Dusk seems to be a particularly good time for fish activity. What we recommend is starting your snorkel around the front/reception side of the island (a bit to the left of the restaurants) around 4:00 pm and circle the house reef leisurely until you hit the Sunset Bar. Pull up there just in time for a sunset pina colada. Then, order your dinner right there too and eat on the beach while the sunset sky changes hues and the stars start popping out overhead.

Kurumba zebra moray

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