Happy 16th Anniversary to Maldives Complete. The site motors along – resorts sending me material, fans sending me “Best Ofs” they’ve spotted, prospective guests sending kudos as well as queries for their trip planning. It’s still an expensive endeavour for the site maintenance, hosting, and research trips.
One of the costs of its longevity is legacy technology. When I developed it on ASP.net active server pages, it was the state of the art for the web. Now, I needed upgrade my machine which forced me into full 64-bit mode (no more 32-bit emulation), which meant completely new versions of various applications, which meant that lots of the tools I had come to rely on for site development and maintenance no longer worked. So I had to embark on a two-month technical project to upgrade all my tools and the code for the site.
Social media engagement has completely plateaued (and thinking of dropping Twitter, aka X, completely because it is so useless for small properties and just geared to big players (and people kibbitzing the big guys). After the surge of the late teens (2015-2018) where there was double-digit net new (ie. the new resorts minus the ones taken out of commission for refurb or just shut down) resorts online, the growth plummeted during the COVID years, but has now hit double-digits again for the first time in 6 years.
The blogging has tapered to a pretty steady “every 3 days” pace, when earlier in its history it has been mostly every other day and very early, nearly every day.
I appreciate all of the support from the destination fans and industry.
Some of the classiest treatment rooms in the Maldives are situated overwater and feature a glass portal under the treatment table so you can be lulled into more a relaxed state looking at the tranquil waters sloshing about below with its colourful tropical fish cruising by. Joali Being has given its entire treatment a glass floor so you are immersed in the aquatic tranquillity the moment you enter.
A dramatic art piece is becoming de rigeur for the 5-star luxury properties and I am big fan of creative works which evoke the aquatic surroundings. I really like this bait ball mobile at Heritance Aarah which absolutely evokes the magical shimmer of silvery pelagics.
The more challenges that climate change throws at the Maldives, the more create innovation it throws right back. The latest approach to coral regeneration is Nova’s depth-adjustable coral nursery. Developed by Nova Marine Biologist, Toby Corren with guidance from Dr. Inga Dehnert during the early stages, the depth of the line with the coral pieces are adjusted by shortening or lengthening the ropes attached to the horizontal propagation ropes which are anchored at the bottom with D-ring anchor points. The main objective of this depth flexibility is to help mitigate stress responses from increased sea surface temperatures in the upper water columns, especially during bleaching events. The project is currently focused on fast-growing scleractinian corals, but they plan to expand the nursery to include a broader range of species in the future.
I’ve already highlighted how Fuvahmulah and Pelagic Divers are specialists in the tiger diving experience, but also thanks to Pelagic Divers, you can be one too. They not only offer a “Tiger Shark” PADI Speciality Course, but they were the ones who actually developed it.
· “Pelagic Divers Fuvahmulah has announced a new partnership with PADI, the world’s leading scuba diving training organisation. Together, they are introducing a Tiger Shark Specialty Course, designed specifically for divers who want to safely and responsibly dive with tiger sharks in the unique waters of Fuvahmulah, Maldives. This course has been personally designed and written by Ahmed Inah, the owner of Pelagic Divers Fuvahmulah. It is based on Inah’s years of experience shark diving in Fuvahmulah and is designed to enable divers to share his passion for responsibly scuba diving with tiger sharks in the area. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced diver, this course will provide you with the knowledge and skills you need to safely and responsibly dive with these majestic creatures in Fuvahmulah. The Tiger Shark Specialty Course includes two training dives with tiger sharks, as well as theory and an exam. It is designed to teach divers the basic safety protocols for diving with tiger sharks in Fuvahmulah and is only available through Pelagic Divers Fuvahmulah.”
We were intrigued by Belize because the coral reef off its eastern coast features islands allegedly the most similar to the Maldives of anywhere in the world. I had featured it in my popular “Maldives Methadone” post. We thought that we could enjoy the tropical island (with diving) holiday while also having a few days to explore the rainforest jungle (a bit like the Maldives+Sri Lanka combo popular in the Indian Ocean). We also thought it would be fun to try a “Maldivian” experience somewhere else in the world.
To remind everyone, the criteria for “Maldives-like” includes:
Small size (able to walk around the circumference)
Tropical
Accessible, quality snorkeling
Blue tapestry seascape
Remoteness (ie. “middle of the ocean” feel with mainland not in sight)
Calm ocean from protective atoll/barrier reef
Why bother with “Methadone” when the Maldives itself offers so many options?
Cost – Maldives is one of the priciest destinations on the planet so seeking lower priced options.
Access – Somewhere closer to North/South America especially, but also Asia/Pacific
Variety – A bit of a different culture, history, locale, etc.
We booked a stay a Ray Caye about 30-minute flight from the international airport in Belize City to Placencia and then 50 minute speedboat ride from there.
What was like the Maldives…
· Blind-Taste Test – If you were to blindfold me and drop me down on Ray Caye without telling me where I was and asked me if it was the Maldives, I would really struggle. It definitely has both the look and vibe of most Maldive resorts. Palm trees, coral sand, azure tapestry seascape.
Seascape – Green caterpillar-like islands on the ocean’s horizon with azure tapestry stretching out.
Warm water, ie. 26-30 degrees Celsius, where you don’t need a wetsuit for diving
Pricing was actually comparable to similar properties in the Maldives (we spent about $1000 BB in a oceanside luxury villa with a plunge pool)
The particular property of Ray Caye was really like the EARLY Maldives (ie. early 2000s) which might have particular appeal to those nostalgic for the simpler, less-luxurified times. Staying at several other on-land Belize resorts en route to Ray Caye, we started observing that the Belize tourism industry is considerably less mature than certainly the Maldives. Another case in point was that when I was at the World Travel Market last week, they were the only Central American country without a booth. Aspects that took us back a decade or more include:
One room, rustic airport arrivals with only one other plane on the tarmac
Top hotels really 4+ star
Limited modern conveniences (ie. Internet only in lobby in some resorts, no TVs)
Big diving draw with familiar aquatic creatures like reef sharks, nurse sharks, dolphins, turtles, sting rays, eagle rays, jacks, and even whale sharks
The mainland non-resort areas of Belize reminded me a lot of Fuvamulah in general development, standard of housing and infrastructure (eg.limited mobile data and wifi, commercial establishments).
The one aspect which actually outshone the Maldives was the coral. Belize is also facing considerable coral bleaching with its hard corals, but its soft coral is the most extensive and varied we have ever seen.
There were telltale signs that this was not quite the Maldives…
Seascape – Extent of the azure sea was not quite as expansive. It seems like the general ocean topology is about a couple metres deeper than that of the Maldives. As a result, few variegated blues stand out and you don’t find ocean-level features like sand bars.
Sealife – Not as much marine life (especially the small fish which is partially down to the scourge of the invasive lion fish that feed on them).
Staff freely circulate and hang out in guest areas (which is a more congenial vibe)
Bird life slightly different with pelicans instead of herons as the prime fishing fowl. Also, osprey and frigates soar from tree to tree instead of flying fox bats.
Limited spa (with therapist off for extended periods of time and only a few treatments available)
Less “remote” feeling as you can see the mountains of Guatemala and Belize in the western distance (even though they are not very prominent and mostly shrouded by horizon clouds)
Belize has a more diverse landscape of atolls than the Maldives and a good number of islands are not at all Maldivian-like as they are quite big (eg. featuring big multi-story hotels).
As I mentioned, we combined our island stay with several nights in the Belize rainforest, specifically the resorts Caves Branch and Sleeping Giant, akin to the popular stays in Sri Lanka often combined with the Maldives. The former lodges were like screened-in porches in the middle of the jungle which made the connection with the outside surroundings very intimate. Sort of akin to what a water villa is to the ocean, the “treehouses” (more like “treetop houses”) are to the jungle. Instead of seeing marine life around you, the sensory experience hits most at night when the sounds of the jungle are around you. Especially the howler monkeys who sound like some sort of alien space saber tooth tigers when they get into their howling action.
Here is a summary of our week long itinerary (ours was stretched to 12 days for more diving and rainforest excursions) which is a good framework to start from for a first trip to the destination:
DAY 1:
Arrive Belize International.
Stay at Caves Branch / Sleeping Giant (90 minute transfer from airport)
DAY 2:
Excursions: Mayan ruins, Cave adventure
Stay at Caves Branch / Sleeping Giant
DAY 3:
Excursions: Explore Placencia, beach and beach bars
Stay at 3 Iguanas, Placencia (90 minute transfer)
DAY 4:
Excursions: Money River and Manatee tour
Stay at 3 Iguanas
DAY 5:
Relax or Water Activity
Stay at Ray Caye (50 minute transfer from Placencia)
One would think that of all places, the relaxed chill of the indolent Maldives would be the last place where one would need help sleeping. But sleep is a bit more complicated than that. Global visitors will confront jet lag. High-powered go-getters can often have trouble shifting gears to decompress. People of a certain age (like us) often suffer from disrupted sleep patterns. And even the blessing of the poolside laying about can make it difficult to get a full night’s sleep because you have rested so much during the day. Joali Being now how has a treatment for anyone who not only wants a relaxing holiday, but also guidance on restful nights even after the vacation is over – sleep therapy:
·Regulate and improve your sleeping patterns. By addressing the underlying health imbalances that may be contributing to your sleep concerns, this Wellbeing Programme ensures that not only will you rest better whilst on holiday but also after you return home.”
The Standard features a practitioner who can tell you a story about yourself…now and in the future. They host tarot card reader/healer, Aritra:
“My reading process is a mix of intuition, connection with the universe, and trust in the cards. When I do a tarot reading, it’s important that my aura is clear and my energy is calm and receptive. This helps me connect deeply with the cards and the person I’m reading for. I start by creating a peaceful environment, sometimes with candles or soothing music, to enhance the focus and energy flow. As I shuffle and lay out the cards, I concentrate on the questions or concerns at hand. The cards act as a bridge, allowing messages and insights to pass through. Each card’s symbols and stories guide the reading, providing clarity and perspective. It’s a process of tuning into the energies and allowing the messages to unfold naturally.”
A trip to the Maldives can literally seem like a visit to a deserted tropical island, but the archipelago is rich with history and culture. Many times this local backdrop is quite removed from the contrived resort experience. Many guests are interested in it and get a taste with local island excurisions. But Oaga has infused every single one of its rooms with their own stories taken from Maldivian lore (which you can read here). And the XXX villas have their stories written in the pool which connects them all (as a good story should).
