Maldives of Africa: Okavango Delta, Xugana

Okavango Delta 1

You arrive in an exotic country and then transfer to a small turboprop plane to traverse an expanse of water with a final short ferrying to your resort island. There you are welcomed with a cool towel and a refreshing drink before checking into your villa overlooking the water. Where are you? The Maldives? No, Xugana, in the Okavango Delta of Botwana. The “Maldives” of Africa.

Sometimes people are looking for the Maldives, but just not the Maldives. Maybe the distance is too far for them. Or there is some logistical or budgetary obstacle. I’ve researched a number of possibilities in “Maldives Methadone”, and “Like the Maldives Only Taller”. I even personally visited one of the candidates, Ray Caye in Belize – “Maldives of the Americas”.

A number of agents might point to a couple of islands off the Zanzibar coast (eg. Bawe Island) as the “Maldives of Africa”. But these are more “Indian Ocean” than “Africa”. If you want the true African aesthetic and vibe, Okavango Delta fits the bill better in which the Xugana safari camp is an exemplar.

  • ISOLATION – Per the introductory paragraph, Xugana is off-the-beaten path. You take a long-haul to a major airport in the region with a connecting flight to Maun, Botswana followed by a puddle-jumper flight to the Delta followed by a boat transfer to the property. The result of which leads to a property set in what seems like the middle of nowhere with no sign of civilization for as far as the eye can see (less true of the Maldives resorts near local islands, but a cherished characteristic of all the others).
  • PREMIUM DESTINATION – The quality of the landscape combined with the logistical challenges of supporting the remote properties (see above) make both premium destinations with luxury quality properties at about $1000/night.
  • WATER – This is, of course, what it is both places are all about. Both destinations are defined by water. There is more water than land. All of the excursions take you to various “islands” (see photo above and directly below).
  • ELEVATION – Of the land that does exist, neither of the destinations have any elevation over a couple of metres making for an intimate connection between water and land. The land exists in that space right at the edge of the tranquil lagoon waters. And the lagoons’ own shallow depths make for distinctive aquatic life that thrive in the shallows. In the Maldives, the lots of the wildlife linger in the shallows of the lagoons just under the surface; in the Delta, lots of the wildlife linger in the shallows as well just above the surface as waders or eyes peeking out (see photos below)
  • DIGESTIVE TERRAFORMING. And the land that it there owes much to the digestive processes of a few residents. The sands of the islands are famously the by-product of parrot fish and other coral munchers grinding down coral (to get to tasty polyps inside) and excreting the powdery calcium carbonate exo-skeleton, also known as the white sands that make up the beaches and sand bars of the area. Similarly, large sections of the Delta landscape is the by-product of termites digesting trees and using the nutrients to make gigantic mounds which are the only places where the land rises significantly higher above the water level (see photo below)
  • WILDLIFE – Maldives wildlife is more aquatic with some on land; Okavango is more land with some aquatic (hippos, crocodiles, otters). I’ve already written about the “Snorkeling Big 5” which riffed off the notion of the “Big 5” from African Safari’s. I would say that one could add the variant of the “Water Big 5” for which I would propose Hippo, Crocodile, Fish Eagle, Elephant, and Water Buffalo (the latter two already in the original “big 5”).
  • SUSTAINABILITY FOCUS – Both the Maldivian and Botswanan governments have invested in significant sustainability initiatives as their appeal rests entirely on the vibrancy and health of its nature and environment.
  • AESTHETIC – A popular design aesthetic is rustic chic. Roughhewn timers and thatched roofs to provide that indigenous vibe.

Okavango Delta 2

Okavango Delta 3

Okavango Delta 4

Okavango Delta hippo

Okavango Delta elephants

Maldives of the Americas

Ray Caye Belize

We were intrigued by Belize because the coral reef off its eastern coast features islands allegedly the most similar to the Maldives of anywhere in the world. I had featured it in my popular “Maldives Methadone” post. We thought that we could enjoy the tropical island (with diving) holiday while also having a few days to explore the rainforest jungle (a bit like the Maldives+Sri Lanka combo popular in the Indian Ocean). We also thought it would be fun to try a “Maldivian” experience somewhere else in the world.

To remind everyone, the criteria for “Maldives-like” includes:

  • Small size (able to walk around the circumference)
  • Tropical
  • Accessible, quality snorkeling
  • Blue tapestry seascape
  • Remoteness (ie. “middle of the ocean” feel with mainland not in sight)
  • Calm ocean from protective atoll/barrier reef

Why bother with “Methadone” when the Maldives itself offers so many options?

  • Cost – Maldives is one of the priciest destinations on the planet so seeking lower priced options.
  • Access – Somewhere closer to North/South America especially, but also Asia/Pacific
  • Variety – A bit of a different culture, history, locale, etc.

We booked a stay a Ray Caye about 30-minute flight from the international airport in Belize City to Placencia and then 50 minute speedboat ride from there.

What was like the Maldives…

· Blind-Taste Test – If you were to blindfold me and drop me down on Ray Caye without telling me where I was and asked me if it was the Maldives, I would really struggle. It definitely has both the look and vibe of most Maldive resorts. Palm trees, coral sand, azure tapestry seascape.

  • Seascape – Green caterpillar-like islands on the ocean’s horizon with azure tapestry stretching out.
  • Landscape – Tropical, palm trees, walking pines, mangroves.
  • Warm water, ie. 26-30 degrees Celsius, where you don’t need a wetsuit for diving
  • Pricing was actually comparable to similar properties in the Maldives (we spent about $1000 BB in a oceanside luxury villa with a plunge pool)

The particular property of Ray Caye was really like the EARLY Maldives (ie. early 2000s) which might have particular appeal to those nostalgic for the simpler, less-luxurified times. Staying at several other on-land Belize resorts en route to Ray Caye, we started observing that the Belize tourism industry is considerably less mature than certainly the Maldives. Another case in point was that when I was at the World Travel Market last week, they were the only Central American country without a booth. Aspects that took us back a decade or more include:

  • One room, rustic airport arrivals with only one other plane on the tarmac
  • Top hotels really 4+ star
  • Limited modern conveniences (ie. Internet only in lobby in some resorts, no TVs)
  • Big diving draw with familiar aquatic creatures like reef sharks, nurse sharks, dolphins, turtles, sting rays, eagle rays, jacks, and even whale sharks

The mainland non-resort areas of Belize reminded me a lot of Fuvamulah in general development, standard of housing and infrastructure (eg.limited mobile data and wifi, commercial establishments).

The one aspect which actually outshone the Maldives was the coral. Belize is also facing considerable coral bleaching with its hard corals, but its soft coral is the most extensive and varied we have ever seen.

There were telltale signs that this was not quite the Maldives…

  • Seascape – Extent of the azure sea was not quite as expansive. It seems like the general ocean topology is about a couple metres deeper than that of the Maldives. As a result, few variegated blues stand out and you don’t find ocean-level features like sand bars.
  • Sealife – Not as much marine life (especially the small fish which is partially down to the scourge of the invasive lion fish that feed on them).
  • Staff freely circulate and hang out in guest areas (which is a more congenial vibe)
  • Bird life slightly different with pelicans instead of herons as the prime fishing fowl. Also, osprey and frigates soar from tree to tree instead of flying fox bats.
  • Limited spa (with therapist off for extended periods of time and only a few treatments available)
  • Less “remote” feeling as you can see the mountains of Guatemala and Belize in the western distance (even though they are not very prominent and mostly shrouded by horizon clouds)
  • Belize has a more diverse landscape of atolls than the Maldives and a good number of islands are not at all Maldivian-like as they are quite big (eg. featuring big multi-story hotels).

As I mentioned, we combined our island stay with several nights in the Belize rainforest, specifically the resorts Caves Branch and Sleeping Giant, akin to the popular stays in Sri Lanka often combined with the Maldives. The former lodges were like screened-in porches in the middle of the jungle which made the connection with the outside surroundings very intimate. Sort of akin to what a water villa is to the ocean, the “treehouses” (more like “treetop houses”) are to the jungle. Instead of seeing marine life around you, the sensory experience hits most at night when the sounds of the jungle are around you. Especially the howler monkeys who sound like some sort of alien space saber tooth tigers when they get into their howling action.

Here is a summary of our week long itinerary (ours was stretched to 12 days for more diving and rainforest excursions) which is a good framework to start from for a first trip to the destination:

  • DAY 1:
    • Arrive Belize International.
    • Stay at Caves Branch / Sleeping Giant (90 minute transfer from airport)
  • DAY 2:
    • Excursions: Mayan ruins, Cave adventure
    • Stay at Caves Branch / Sleeping Giant
  • DAY 3:
    • Excursions: Explore Placencia, beach and beach bars
    • Stay at 3 Iguanas, Placencia (90 minute transfer)
  • DAY 4:
    • Excursions: Money River and Manatee tour
    • Stay at 3 Iguanas
  • DAY 5:
    • Relax or Water Activity
    • Stay at Ray Caye (50 minute transfer from Placencia)
  • DAY 6:
    • Stay at Ray Caye
    • Relax or Water Activity
  • DAY 7:
    • Return travel

Like the Maldives Only Taller

Huma Island - Philippines

As I discussed in my post “Maldives Methadone”, one of the most frequently discussed topic amongst Maldives addicts (known as victims of “Maldivitis”) is the question “Is there anywhere else on Earth like the Maldives?” (hopefully a little cheaper).

If you truly take the unique blend of characteristics that make the Maldives the very definition of Bounty-bar iconic paradise, then the selection is rather limited. So to extend the boundaries a little more generously, I’ve assembled a second tier collection of tropical islands that are like the Maldives in every way except elevation.

Unfortunately, adding a bit of topological height doesn’t really seem to lower the price that much. Most of the rates are comparable to top high-end 4-stars or value priced 5-star properties in the Maldives. But if you are okay with a largish pile of rocks instead a smallish plot of sand for your tropical island, then here are some Maldives cousins…

  1. Huma Island, Philippines (£484 per night) [ABOVE]
  2. Club Paradise Palawan, Philippines (£308 per night)
    Club Paradise Palawan - Philippines
      
  3. Constance Tsarabanjina, Madagascar (£427 per night)
    Constance Tsarabanjina - Madagascar
      
  4. Petit St. Vincent, Grenadines (£665 per night)
    Petit St. Vincent - Grenadines
       
  5. Komodo Resort, Sebayur Indonesia (£380 per night)
    Komodo Resort - Sebayur (Indonesia)
       
  6. Royal Davui Island Resort, Fiji (£560 per night)
    Royal Davui Island Resort - Fiji
       

Maldives Methadone

Resort Destinations Like the Maldives

One of the more frequently asked questions on the Maldives TripAdvisor Forum is whether there is another other place on Earth similar to the Maldives. People bitten by the Laccadive bug which is known to inflict a lifelong addiction (case in point) seeking to get hooked up with a fix.

Usually the query is inspired by a stretched budget and the enquirer is seeking a generic, store-brand knock-off of the Maldives to satisfy their craving (in the Maldives Forum Search put in “like the Maldives” – here’s the longest thread). Thailand, Mauritius, Seychelles, Fiji, BVI, Turks & Caicos, Australia are frequently proposed, but a little research shows that nearly all resorts there are all on quite big islands and relatively close together. Aside from the basic similarities of sun and sand, not nearly the “plot of sand in the middle of the ocean” experience of the Maldives. World-travelling friends who introduced us to the Maldives have sent us postcards saying “[Tropical Island X] is wonderful…but it isn’t the Maldives.”. We ourselves have joined this island hunt with our trip to Indonesia which was superb…but it wasn’t the Maldives.

Over recent months I have been digging a bit deeper to come up with the closest facsimiles for those who need an alternative dose whether it be for a change of destination, somewhere less far to travel (the Maldives is quite an expedition for those on the other side of the world in the Americas), or even to save a bit of money. Despite the lattermost inspiration, nearly all the resorts I uncovered came in at just under $500 for entry level BB per person which is not too far off typical Maldives prices for nice 4+ star or a modest 5 star property. The closer the alternative destination property was to Maldives characteristics, the close the racks rate were to those in the Maldives.

There are obviously thousands of tropical island resorts in the world. For my most prominent filters, I excluded the following deal-breakers which keep a property from really having the Maldives vibe:

  • Big Islands – Must be small enough to walk around in the time it takes to drink a bottle of beer and no elevation.
  • Mediterranean – Weather and sea life too limited.
  • Private Islands – Financially inaccessible (for most) properties that rent for tens of thousands for the whole place such as Richard Branson’s Necker Island in the Caribbean, David Copperfield’s Musha Cay in the Bahamas, or Noa Noa in the Philippines.
  • Local Islands – The islands have to be dedicated resort islands (ie. no local residents), but can have multiple properties like Malaysia’s Mabul Island (and how the old Kuramathi, Maldives set up used to be).
  • Remote Undeveloped Islands – Great bolt holes for liveaboards and cruise vessels, but that is an entirely different proposition to a resort and not everybody’s cuppa tea.
  • Middle of the Ocean – Must be surrounded by 90% water with limited proximity, development, or high elevation islands on the horizon to preserve that “middle of the ocean” feel. This was the hardest aspect to adhere to and I bent consideration with a few selections below (eg. Akaiami Paradise Lodge, Le Taha’a Island, and Song Saa)

The top destinations with the most qualifying (and nearly qualifying) candidates are the following:

  • Belize – Seems the closest as an overall destination – lots of islands, many small, coral and diving. I’ve included in a couple in the catalogue below, but I came across a good deal of others in my research. Also, seems to be considerably lower cost (though also lower standard) than many Maldives properties.
  • Malaysia – Also, a good number of properties I came across and included a couple below.
  • French Polynesia – Known most widely for the biggest island Tahiti, but it does have quite an array of smaller gems (again, a couple examples included in the list below).

Below is a list of the most prominent examples of Maldives mould alternatives. This piece will be a living post so if and as people recommend or I otherwise discover other resorts that meet the criteria, I will add them to the post and map.

Price indicated are approximate rates per person bed and breakfast based on queries to the resort website.

    1. Mabul, Borneo, Malaysia ($426pp)
      Mabul Borneo resort
         
    2. Lankayan Island, Borneo, Malaysia ($183pp)
      Lankayan Borneo resort
         
    3. Coco Plum Island Resort, Belize ($456pp)
      Coco Plum Island Belize resort
          
    4. Royal Palm Island, Belize ($120pp)
      Royal Plum Island Belize resort
          
    5. Anantara Medjumbe Island, Mozambique ($390pp)
      Anantara Mediumbe Island Mozambique resort
          
    6. Denis Island, Seychelles ($600pp) – thanks Moira
      Maldives like - Denis Island Seychelle
          
    7. Akaiami Paradise Lodge Aitutaki, Cook Islands, New Zealand ($480pp)
      Akaiami Paradise Lodge Aitutaki Cook Islands New Zealand resort
          
    8. Song Saa, Cambodia ($484pp)
      Song Saa Cambodia resort
          
    9. Lady Elliott Island, Great Barrier Reef, Australia ($145pp)
      Lady Elliott Island Great Barrier Reef Australia
    10.  Vahine Island, French Polynesia ($311pp)

    11. Le Taha’a Island Resort, Tahiti ($517pp)
      Le Tahaa Island Resort Tahiti
            
    12. Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort and Spa, Tahiti ($190pp)
      Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort and Spa Tahiti resort