We were intrigued by Belize because the coral reef off its eastern coast features islands allegedly the most similar to the Maldives of anywhere in the world. I had featured it in my popular “Maldives Methadone” post. We thought that we could enjoy the tropical island (with diving) holiday while also having a few days to explore the rainforest jungle (a bit like the Maldives+Sri Lanka combo popular in the Indian Ocean). We also thought it would be fun to try a “Maldivian” experience somewhere else in the world.
To remind everyone, the criteria for “Maldives-like” includes:
- Small size (able to walk around the circumference)
- Tropical
- Accessible, quality snorkeling
- Blue tapestry seascape
- Remoteness (ie. “middle of the ocean” feel with mainland not in sight)
- Calm ocean from protective atoll/barrier reef
Why bother with “Methadone” when the Maldives itself offers so many options?
- Cost – Maldives is one of the priciest destinations on the planet so seeking lower priced options.
- Access – Somewhere closer to North/South America especially, but also Asia/Pacific
- Variety – A bit of a different culture, history, locale, etc.
We booked a stay a Ray Caye about 30-minute flight from the international airport in Belize City to Placencia and then 50 minute speedboat ride from there.
What was like the Maldives…
· Blind-Taste Test – If you were to blindfold me and drop me down on Ray Caye without telling me where I was and asked me if it was the Maldives, I would really struggle. It definitely has both the look and vibe of most Maldive resorts. Palm trees, coral sand, azure tapestry seascape.
- Seascape – Green caterpillar-like islands on the ocean’s horizon with azure tapestry stretching out.
- Landscape – Tropical, palm trees, walking pines, mangroves.
- Warm water, ie. 26-30 degrees Celsius, where you don’t need a wetsuit for diving
- Pricing was actually comparable to similar properties in the Maldives (we spent about $1000 BB in a oceanside luxury villa with a plunge pool)
The particular property of Ray Caye was really like the EARLY Maldives (ie. early 2000s) which might have particular appeal to those nostalgic for the simpler, less-luxurified times. Staying at several other on-land Belize resorts en route to Ray Caye, we started observing that the Belize tourism industry is considerably less mature than certainly the Maldives. Another case in point was that when I was at the World Travel Market last week, they were the only Central American country without a booth. Aspects that took us back a decade or more include:
- One room, rustic airport arrivals with only one other plane on the tarmac
- Top hotels really 4+ star
- Limited modern conveniences (ie. Internet only in lobby in some resorts, no TVs)
- Big diving draw with familiar aquatic creatures like reef sharks, nurse sharks, dolphins, turtles, sting rays, eagle rays, jacks, and even whale sharks
The mainland non-resort areas of Belize reminded me a lot of Fuvamulah in general development, standard of housing and infrastructure (eg.limited mobile data and wifi, commercial establishments).
The one aspect which actually outshone the Maldives was the coral. Belize is also facing considerable coral bleaching with its hard corals, but its soft coral is the most extensive and varied we have ever seen.
There were telltale signs that this was not quite the Maldives…
- Seascape – Extent of the azure sea was not quite as expansive. It seems like the general ocean topology is about a couple metres deeper than that of the Maldives. As a result, few variegated blues stand out and you don’t find ocean-level features like sand bars.
- Sealife – Not as much marine life (especially the small fish which is partially down to the scourge of the invasive lion fish that feed on them).
- Staff freely circulate and hang out in guest areas (which is a more congenial vibe)
- Bird life slightly different with pelicans instead of herons as the prime fishing fowl. Also, osprey and frigates soar from tree to tree instead of flying fox bats.
- Limited spa (with therapist off for extended periods of time and only a few treatments available)
- Less “remote” feeling as you can see the mountains of Guatemala and Belize in the western distance (even though they are not very prominent and mostly shrouded by horizon clouds)
- Belize has a more diverse landscape of atolls than the Maldives and a good number of islands are not at all Maldivian-like as they are quite big (eg. featuring big multi-story hotels).
As I mentioned, we combined our island stay with several nights in the Belize rainforest, specifically the resorts Caves Branch and Sleeping Giant, akin to the popular stays in Sri Lanka often combined with the Maldives. The former lodges were like screened-in porches in the middle of the jungle which made the connection with the outside surroundings very intimate. Sort of akin to what a water villa is to the ocean, the “treehouses” (more like “treetop houses”) are to the jungle. Instead of seeing marine life around you, the sensory experience hits most at night when the sounds of the jungle are around you. Especially the howler monkeys who sound like some sort of alien space saber tooth tigers when they get into their howling action.
Here is a summary of our week long itinerary (ours was stretched to 12 days for more diving and rainforest excursions) which is a good framework to start from for a first trip to the destination:
- DAY 1:
- Arrive Belize International.
- Stay at Caves Branch / Sleeping Giant (90 minute transfer from airport)
- DAY 2:
- Excursions: Mayan ruins, Cave adventure
- Stay at Caves Branch / Sleeping Giant
- DAY 3:
- Excursions: Explore Placencia, beach and beach bars
- Stay at 3 Iguanas, Placencia (90 minute transfer)
- DAY 4:
- Excursions: Money River and Manatee tour
- Stay at 3 Iguanas
- DAY 5:
- Relax or Water Activity
- Stay at Ray Caye (50 minute transfer from Placencia)
- DAY 6:
- Stay at Ray Caye
- Relax or Water Activity
- DAY 7:
- Return travel